Wednesday, January 20, 2010
The Ocean is my Cradle
(One of my favourite photos, of my hero Rell Sunn).
I am excited for my trip. I'm going alone and have limited funds but I think this is a good thing. I am not much of a "tourist" of places (even though I'm staying in a touristy area), I would rather just immerse myself in nature and do what I normally would do anywhere. I love the Hawaiian attitude, and wish I could live there. If I was American, I would. I still think I will live there one day.
In O'ahu, where I am going on Feb. 1st (for 6 days), I plan a few things, which will cost me little but give me much.
Mostly I want to see people surf Pipeline. I have wanted to see this wave in person for many years. I would LOVE to see a contest there, but then I would be sharing the beach with thousands of people. Still...it would be stellar to see all the professionals. However, I let that idea go, as I think seeing people just surf it for the joy of it will be more amazing. That wave is brutal. It chills me! Same with Teahupoo in Tahiti - earth-shattering. I wish to see that in person one day, too. I will never have the balls to go into it. I know I would die.
And of course I want to surf in Hawaii, myself. To do it with no wetsuit will be the thrill of my life. I am so used to millimeters of rubber and very cold Canadian water. Even in Australia I had to wear a wetsuit - though it was thinner. I've surfed once with no wetsuit, for 5-10 minutes in the summer in Tofino. It was damn cold. But worth it. A different experience all together.
My first time catching a wave was in Brazil when I was 15. It was on a boogie board. A friend of my dad's girlfriend pushed me into it. It was thrilling. My bikini bottoms were dragged off by the pull of the ocean and I had to stop myself. What a bummer.
Also in Hawaii I plan to eat a LOT of fruit. There are so many I have never tried, and a lot I have never tried FRESH. I really hope there is fresh durian when I am there. I have yet to try jackfruit, and I really want black sapote, the chocolate fruit. I will live off papaya and pineapple and coconuts. Fruitarian for a week I am sure.
I want to hike Diamond Head, go to Manoa falls, go snorkeling and swimming constantly, and there is a carnival on the 6th that I will attend with a friend who lives in O'ahu who I used to work with in Vancouver. It's nice to know someone there.
I'm staying in a cheap hotel. I wish I could have stayed on the North Shore but there is not a lot of options except an expensive resort and a hostel. I need my space because I am a light sleeper. There is a bus that goes around the whole island for $2 apparently. Yay!
I may also go for a horseback ride and get a tattoo. We'll see how far I can make my money go in such a pricey place.
I hope I see sea turtles. And I hope sharks keep their distance. I LOVE sharks, and I respect them. I swam with whale sharks in Australia, and was quite near reef sharks as well. Stunning creatures. I would love to cage dive with white sharks.
I think you attract what you fear. I will feel safe in Hawaiian waters. The ocean is like my cradle. I belong in it.
It will be a challenge to not get much of a tan - I look weird with one.