(Me going surfing for the first time in 2001 - cold Canadian waters).
This year I am:
1. Going to Hawaii. Gonna surf Waikiki and watch the big wave surfing. I can't wait to see Pipeline in person. If I can't surf it, at least I can watch it. And surfing in WARM WATER (!#*%!*@) - OH BLISS. No wetsuit.
2. Gonna BUY a surfboard again. Red longboard. It's decided. Or maybe green.
3. Visit Tofino. I miss it. It always calls to me "come back come back."
I used to do this all the time.
4. Buy a dehydrator. My Vita-mix and Hurom juicer can wait, though I will get them eventually.
5. Do the zombie walk again.
6. Try and go surfing as much as I can. I need my gear. Selling my gear is my only real regret.
If I had ONE WISH it would either be: go back in time and learn to surf as a child and run away to the sea. OR...to just have mad surfing skills. Now. But I think I'd rather go back in time and have a whole lifetime of surfing.
Yes, I know I don't look like a surfer. Hehe. It's been 5 years since I have been surfing. This needs to change. NOW. I have been obsessed with surfing since I was 13. Ever since I saw Point Break. I wish I had known surfing was an option in Canada, and that it wasn't even that far away from where I was. If only, if only. I dream of waves. When I die I want my ashes scattered at Pipeline, so I can be able to surf it one day.
My heart aches when I see that wave. Years ago when I saw it on tv for the first time, I burst into tears. Because of the sounds it made. It clutched my whole soul in it's tight little barrel fist.
LOOK AT IT.
Wow.
This is where I used to live and work. Sigh. That's my shiny butt.
Okay, this is an offical new resolution. A big one. GET BACK INTO SURFING.
And as a final note, this is the craziest, most amazing wave I've ever seen. That anyone has ever seen.
This is the most amazing wave video. It's total harmony between a person and nature. So impressive.
ReplyDeleteI know, I hold my breath every time I see this footage.
ReplyDeleteGet in contact with Erin to see if she's going surfing any time soon. She's heavily involved with the UBC Surf Club, which is a great networking opporutunity to meet like-minded individuals. It'll probably help you get back into surfing because people will be planning surf trips all the time, seeking others to join in (and cut costs). And no, you don't have to be a UBC student - you just have to have an interest in surfing. :)
ReplyDeleteFunny you mention that, because you guys have both suggested it to me several times and I always forget, but the morning after I wrote this post, I remembered, and plan to join! Haha, it's one of my tabs in Firefox right now.
ReplyDeleteAnd I am going surfing in a couple weeks :)