Thursday, January 14, 2010
(Me going surfing for the first time in 2001 - cold Canadian waters).
This year I am:
1. Going to Hawaii. Gonna surf Waikiki and watch the big wave surfing. I can't wait to see Pipeline in person. If I can't surf it, at least I can watch it. And surfing in WARM WATER (!#*%!*@) - OH BLISS. No wetsuit.
2. Gonna BUY a surfboard again. Red longboard. It's decided. Or maybe green.
3. Visit Tofino. I miss it. It always calls to me "come back come back."
I used to do this all the time.
4. Buy a dehydrator. My Vita-mix and Hurom juicer can wait, though I will get them eventually.
5. Do the zombie walk again.
6. Try and go surfing as much as I can. I need my gear. Selling my gear is my only real regret.
If I had ONE WISH it would either be: go back in time and learn to surf as a child and run away to the sea. OR...to just have mad surfing skills. Now. But I think I'd rather go back in time and have a whole lifetime of surfing.
Yes, I know I don't look like a surfer. Hehe. It's been 5 years since I have been surfing. This needs to change. NOW. I have been obsessed with surfing since I was 13. Ever since I saw Point Break. I wish I had known surfing was an option in Canada, and that it wasn't even that far away from where I was. If only, if only. I dream of waves. When I die I want my ashes scattered at Pipeline, so I can be able to surf it one day.
My heart aches when I see that wave. Years ago when I saw it on tv for the first time, I burst into tears. Because of the sounds it made. It clutched my whole soul in it's tight little barrel fist.
LOOK AT IT.
This is where I used to live and work. Sigh. That's my shiny butt.
Okay, this is an offical new resolution. A big one. GET BACK INTO SURFING.
And as a final note, this is the craziest, most amazing wave I've ever seen. That anyone has ever seen.